001560   DEVI O R, BAINS S, GREWAL S (Apparel and Textile Science Dep, Punjab Agricultural Univ, Ludhiana-141 004, Punjab, Email: oinam.roselyn@gmail.com) : Ultrasonic dyeing of wool fabric with aqueous extract of Ratanjot (Onosma echioides) natural dye. Environ Conserv J 2021, 22(1&2), 79-86.

The purpose of this study is to compare the conventional and ultrasonic dyeing methods in terms of its colour strength
and colour fastness properties of wool fabric dyed with Ratanjot root. The results suggested that dyeing of wool fabric
with natural dye Ratanjot (Onosma echioides) using ultrasonic waves, significantly improved the dye uptake percentage to
12.31 per cent from conventional heating methods. The fastness grade were found to be higher with ultrasonic than
conventional heating. Additionally, the fabric dyed using ultrasonic waves gave a deeper shade and good colour intensity
even at lower dyeing time (75min) and temperature (60°C). Therefore, ultrasound wave represents a promising technique
for increasing diffusion of dye by the effect of cavitation, as well as for improving the effectiveness of processes when
compared to conventional heating.

9 illus, 3 tables, 18 ref

001551   BHANDARI B, RANI A (Textile Design Dep, NIFT Kangra, Himanchal Pradesh, Email: babita.bhandari@nift.ac.in) : Standardization and utilization of Himalayan nettle (Girardinia diversifolia) roots for the dyeing of silk fabric. Environ Conserv J 2021, 22(1&2), 19-25.

The nature is abode to numerous plants, animal and mineral resources that offersustainable alternative to chemicalsused
in textile dyeing. In this paper an effort has been made to utilize the roots of Himalayan nettle plant for fabric dyeing
which grows abundantly in-the higher altitude of Uttarakhand as a weed plant. The extraction and dyeing variables were
optimized for application on silk fabric on the basis of colour strength and wash fastness rating. Dye extraction carried
out in aqueous medium at simmering temperature for 1.5 hoursresulted in better colour depth and washing fastness.
Similarly, dyeing of silk at 90ºC for 90 minutes using 3 gm per 100 ml powdered dye material yielded better dyed samples
in terms of colour strength and wash fastness. The obtained dye recipe is easy to be used by dyeing units at minimal cost
since no chemicals are added during dyeing and raw material can be collected from pastures, around croplands and
nearby forest areas.

2 illus, 8 tables, 19 ref

003041   VASTRAD J V, GOUDAR G, BYADGI S A, BHAIRAPPANNAVAR D S (Textile and Apparel Designing Dep, Agricultural Sciences Univ, Dharwad - 580 005, Email: vastradjv@uasd.in) : Areca catechu slurry: A rich source of phenolics and flavonoids. Asian J. Chem 2021, 33 (2), 271 - 5.

In present study, the qualitative and quantitative analysis of phenolic compounds and flavonoids in arecanut slurry based on UV spectrometry and LC-MS were carried out. Results revealed that the arecanut slurry powder extract exhibited the presence of different phenolic groups such as alkaloids, flavonoids, phenolic acids, tannins, saponins and terpenoids. Further, total phenolic content (TPC) and total flavonoid content (TFC) of aqueous extract of areca slurry powder was found to be 214.50 mg/g (GAE) and 184.12 mg/g (RE), respectively. LC-MS analysis depicted the presence of vanillic acid in considerable amounts, which is a benzoic acid derivative used as a flavouring agent. Meanwhile, catechin was profoundly present in the aqueous extracts of arecanut slurry powder among all the other flavonoids. The arecanut slurry powder extracts exhibited substantial amount of vanillic acid and catechin, which are known to be beneficial in various pharmacological studies.

3 illus, 3 tables, 28 ref

041402   SINGH N, SHEIKH J (Textile and Fibre Engineering Dep, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, New Delhi - 110 016, Email: jnsheikh@iitd.ac.in) : Microencapsulation and its application in production of functional textiles. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(4), 495-509.

Currently, the textile sector is moving towards the development of value-added functional textile products based on customer demand. Therefore, several new finishing techniques have been evolved so far to functionalize the textile substrates. In this context, the microencapsulation technique is one of the advanced technologies which has been used to impart functional properties such as antibacterial activity, aroma, mosquito repellency, UV protection, and thermoregulation to textiles. In microencapsulation, the volatile and non-volatile components can be encapsulated within a thin polymeric layer which causes a slow release of the compound, resulting in long-lasting functional effect. Various active materials, like essential oils, enzymes, drugs, pesticides and vitamins, have been successfully entrapped inside microcapsules made from a variety of polymeric materials. There are interesting reports available in the literature dealing with functionalization of textiles using microencapsulated materials. This review paper covers the fundamentals of microencapsulation, its major techniques, materials involved in microencapsulation and the important research reported in this area. The major essential oils used in microencapsulation and the subsequent functional effects are also reviewed. The present and futuristic research trends in this important area of chemical processing of textiles are presented.

8 illus, 7 tables, 132 ref

041401   SARAVANYA K S, KAVITHA S, PARTHIBAN M (Fashion Technology Dep, PSG Coll of Technology, Coimbatore - 641 004, Email: parthi111180@gmail.com) : Thermal properties of natural fibres extracted from Palmyra sprouts. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(4), 488-94.

Effect of fibre extraction from Palmyra sprouts by manual method and water retting process has been studied. Mechanical and chemical properties of the fibres have been studied. Cellulose, lignin, ash and wax contents present in both manual and water retted palmyra sprout fibre are found to be 61.72 % & 55.63 %, 23.25 % & 30.66 %, 5.15 % & 3.61 % and 0.66 % & 0.84 % respectively. The low composition of ash provides light-weight and stiffness to the fibres. Thermogravimetric analysis shows that the residual mass of water retted fibre shows is 26.77 % at 498.2ºC and that of manual retted fibre is 21.31 % at 498.2 ºC. The average single fibre strength values for the water and manual retted samples are 2.34 N and 4 N respectively, with a standard deviation of 0.642 N and 1.81 N respectively. In this study, thermal properties are also analyzed.

2 illus, 12 ref

041400   VIJU S (Textile Technology Dep, PSG Coll of Technology, Coimbatore - 641 004, Email: vijutext@gmail.com) : Chitosan coating on silk fibroin for oil spill treatment. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(4), 482-7.

A new kind of silk fibroin based oil sorbent has been developed by coating chitosan onto silk fibroin. The effect of chitosan coating on oil sorption and oil retention behavior of silk fibroin is studied. The maximum oil sorption capactiy of chitosan coated silk fibroin is 26.80 g/g and 19.46 g/g for engine oil and diesel oil respectively. SEM is used to analyze the surface morphology and FTIR confirms the chemical changes after chitosan treatment. Reusability test results suggest that after 5 cycles, the oil absorbency of chitosan coated silk fibroin is 14.39 g/g and 10.30 g/g against engine oil and diesel oil respectively. A comparison of oil sorption capacity of chitosan coated silk fibroin with other synthetic sorbents is also presented. It is concluded that chitosan coated silk fibroin has the potential to become widely employed sorbent for oil spill removal applications.

6 illus, 1 table, 21 ref

041399   ARYA P, GHOSH S, DAS D (Eastern Michigan Univ, Ypsilanti, MI, USA, Email: sghosh@emich.edu) : Development of non-formaldehyde wrinkle resistant finish for cotton using carboxylic acids. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(4), 475-81.

A study has been conducted to develop a wrinke resistant cotton fabric using three carboxylic acids combination along with initiator and catalyst, at various pH and concentration, and to determine the effects of treatment on wrinkle recovery angle, wrinkle recovery appearance rating, and carboxyl group content of the treated fabrics. The amount of carboxylic acids on the fabric is determined by % weight gain of treated samples, carboxyl ‘n’ group content, wrinkle recovery angle and wrinkle recovery appearance rating. Furthermore, FTIR spectroscopic analysis has been conducted to study the attachment of acid groups for reducing the available free OH groups on the cotton cellulosic chains. The results show significant wrinkle resistance of treated samples. In order to evaluate the wash durability of the finish applied, the treated sample is laundered for 20 cycles and it is found that the wrinkle recovery property significantly persist even after washing.

3 illus, 1 table, 29 ref

041398   GIRI S, DASH B P, PANDA P K (Engineering and Technology Coll, Khandagiri, Bhubaneswar - 751 029, Email: bpdash@cet.edu.in) : Effect of plasma treatment on crease recovery finish of linen with carboxylic acid. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(4), 470-4.

The effect of helium plasma treatment has been investigated on crease recovery finish of linen fabric using carboxylic acid as crosslinker. After the plasma treatment, 5 % increase in wet pickup is observed compared to the control fabric. This plasma treated sample is crosslinked with butyl tetracarboxylic acid (BTCA). The significant increase in crease recovery angle is found as compared to the untreated crosslinked fabric. However, significant reduction in tearing is also observed in both the cases. Tearing strength could be improved to acceptable range by adding silicone softener during cross-linking process. The untreated and plasma-treated fabrics are analyzed by scanning electron microscope and ATR-FTIR spectroscopy to investigate the changes in surface morphology and surface functional groups.

3 illus, 4 tables, 10 ref

041396   MUKHOPADHYAY A, MIDHA V, PREET A (Textile Technology Dep, National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar - 144 011, Email: arunangshu@nitj.ac.in) : Impact of seam on liquid transmission behaviour of multi-layered ensembles using sweat and water. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(4), 457-63.

Present study is focussed on the effect of seam on the moisture transmission in liquid form. Behaviour of actual sweat is found to be different from pure water used while evaluating the performance of multilayer clothing systems in seamed and unseamed condition in terms of their in-plane (wetting time) & cross-plane moisture transmission and overall moisture management capacity. Uni-directional seam shows higher wetting time at the inner surface as well as better cross-plane transmittance, and hence better overall moisture management capacity as compared to bi-directional stitched and unseamed fabrics. In all the cases, sweat shows less wetting time than water. Multi-layered ensemble with polyester spacer fabric as middle layer exhibits better overall moisture management properties in comparison to layered ensemble with fleece fabric as middle layer both in seamed and unseamed conditions. Seam type plays a most significant role followed by type of layered ensembles then solution type in affecting the overall moisture management behaviour of seamed ensembles.

6 illus, 3 tables, 14 ref

041395   DEMIR M, KILIC M (Textile Engineering Dep, Dokuz Eylül Univ, 35397 Izmir, Turkey, Email: murat.demir@deu.edu.tr) : Development of three-roving ring yarn production system. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(4), 450-6.

This study focuses on development of three-roving yarn production system that is inspired from siro-spun technology. Roving funnel and delivery cylinder used in siro-spun technology are redesigned for three-roving yarn production and attached on conventional system. Three-roving yarns produced in ring spinning machine are compared with three plied yarns in terms of physical, mechanical and structural properties. For better assessment of this new system, different raw material types are used in yarn production. Results show that three-roving yarns have better hairiness values and similar mechanical properties for all raw material types. However, unevenness still needs to be improved by further developments on this new system.

6 illus, 4 tables, 24 ref

041394   REGAR M L, SINHA S K, CHATTOPADHYAY R (Textile Technology Dep, Dr B R Ambedkar National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar - 144 011, Email: sinhask@nitj.ac.in) : Migration characteristics of Eli-Twist yarn and its comparison with Siro yarn. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(4), 444-9.

An attempt has been made to investigate the migration characteristics in polyester and cotton Eli-Twist yarn. Three different counts (39.4, 29.5 and 23.6 tex) from each composition have been produced maintaining 40 twist factor for each. For comparative study, the 29.5 tex yarn of two compositions from cotton and polyester are produced on Eli-Twist and Siro spinning systems. The mean fibre position for Eli-Twist polyester yarn is found to be less than that of cotton yarn. Both root mean square deviation and mean migration intensity in Eli-Twist yarn are found to be higher, while mean fibre position is lower as compared to Siro yarn.

5 illus, 4 tables, 11 ref

041393   SENGUPTA S (ICAR-National Institute of Natural Fibres Engineering and Technology, Kolkata - 700 040, Email: ssg_42@rediffmail.com) : Effect of different lignocellulosic fibre based needle punched nonwovens on mechanical properties of bio-reinforced composite. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(4), 436-43.

Bio-reinforced composites have been prepared using polyester resin matrix and cross-laid needle-punched nonwoven fabrics of different lignocellulosic natural fibres (Jute, flax, sunhemp, kenaf, ramie, sisal, coir and pineapple) as well as jute-polypropylene and jute-acrylic blend reinforcement. The composite properties, such as tensile strength, flexural strength and impact strength, have been evaluated. The findings show that the tensile strength and stiffness are very high in case of sisal (211 MPa and 21 GPa) and flax (304 MPa and 30 GPa), which is almost comparable with e-glass. Properties of sunnhemp, coir, pineapple, and kenaf are found superior to ramie, jute and jute blend. The impact strength of pineapple composite (751 kJ/m²) is found very high. The mechanical properties of woven fabric composite are much lower than nonwoven fabric. Cross- direction of composite from nonwoven shows superior mechanical properties as compared to that of the machine direction. Synthetic fibre shows low stiffness (1 GPa) and flexural modulus (1.2 GPa) but very high impact strength (655 kJ/m²). Hence, most of the lingo-cellulosic fibres are suitable for composite reinforcement, especially where the high performance of glass-reinforced plastic is not essential.

6 illus, 4 tables, 27 ref

041392   ROUIBAH H, KENANE M, DAOUD I (Sciences and Technology Univ, BP32 El Alia. 16111 Algiers, Algeria, Email: daoud_ism@hotmail.com) : Influence of fabric properties, hybridization, and thermal aging on properties of flax/jute fibres reinforced epoxy hybrid composites. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(4), 426-35.

Mechanical properties (tensile and three-point flexural), physical properties (density and porosity rate), and thermal properties of flax, jute, and flax/jute fibres reinforced epoxy composites have been investigated. Laminate composites are fabricated by vacuum molding with a total fibre weight fraction maintained at 40 %. Results show that the hybridization with jute fibres can significantly improve the mechanical properties of flax composites, while the thermal stability is decreased. The thermal aging at 250 °C during 400 h causes a decrease in tensile and flexural strength of the resulting composites, whereas their rigidity is increased. Morphological studies of fractured surfaces and the evaluation of porosity have been evaluated using scanning electron microscope and optical microscopy respectively.

8 illus, 2 tables, 48 ref

041391   KHUDE P, MAJUMDAR A, BUTOLA B S (Textile and Fibre Engineering Dep, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, Delhi - 110 016, Email: majumdar@textile.iitd.ac.in) : Development of antibacterial knitted fabrics from polyester-silver nanocomposite fibres. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(4), 419-25.

Development of durable antibacterial knitted polyester fabrics by incorporation of small proportion of polyester-silver nanocomposite fibres has been attempted in this research. Polyester-silver nanocomposite fibres are blended with normal polyester fibres at three weight fractions (10, 20 and 30 %). Three parameters, namely blend proportion (wt.%) of nanocomposite fibres, yarn count and knitting machine gauge, have been varied for producing 27 knitted fabrics. Knitted fabrics prepared from polyester-silver nanocomposite fibres show good to excellent antibacterial activity (65-99 %) against both S. aureus and E. coli bacteria. Blend proportion of nanocomposite fibres is found to be the most dominant factor in influencing the antibacterial activity of knitted fabrics. Antibacterial activity also increases with coarser yarn count and higher knitting machine gauge. It is also found that the tightness or compactness of knitted fabrics is correlated positively with their antibacterial activity.

6 illus, 4 tables, 21 ref

041390   CHAUHAN R, GHOSH S (Textile Technology Dep, Dr. B.R. Ambedkar National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar - 144 011, Email: ghoshs@nitj.ac.in) : Effect of different parameters on stitch shape and thread consumption. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(4), 411-8.

The present work is aimed at studying the effect of fabric compressibility, feed rate and thread tension on the shape of lockstitch and the amount of thread consumed per stitch. Images of different possible stitch shapes have been captured by varying these parameters, and it is found that stitch shape may be rectangular, elliptical, elongated elliptical or circular, depending on the interaction between these parameters. Then, Box-Behenken design of experiment is applied to study the effect of these parameters on the amount of thread consumed per stitch. The contribution % of all the parameters affecting thread consumption is calculated and it is found that the feed rate has highest contribution (92 %) followed by thread tension (2.18 %) and fabric compressibility (1.53 %). From this study, it can be concluded that the prediction of thread consumption in lock-stitching process is only possible if the geometry of the stitch is correctly assumed which varies due to the variations in feed rate, fabric compressibility and thread tension.

6 illus, 5 tables, 23 ref

041388   RAJWIN A J, PRAKASH C (Handloom and Textile Technology Dep, Indian Institute of Handloom Technology, Nadia - 741 402, Email: cprakashphd@gmail.com) : Thermal comfort properties of modified yarn path in cotton fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(4), 395-401.

Effect of the modified yarn path in ring spinning on the thermal comfort behavior of the cotton woven fabric has been investigated. The modified ring yarn is produced by changing the path of the yarn in the ring spinning process. The finding shows that it has a clear impact on the fabric geometrical properties and thermal comfort properties when path of the yarn is changed in ring spinning as left and right diagonal path. It is also observed that the air permeability of the fabric decreases with the right diagonal yarn path and thermal resistance of the fabric increases with the right diagonal yarn path. The fabric woven from the left diagonal yarn path shows higher water vapour permeability.

3 illus, 6 tables, 16 ref

041387   BANSAL P, SIKKA M, CHOUDHARY A K (Textile Technology Dep, Dr B.R. Ambedkar National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar - 144 011, Email: payal888y@gmail.com) : Effect of yarn count and loop length on needle penetration force and needle cut index in single jersey fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(4), 388-94.

The present study embodies the sewability of single jersey knitted fabric based on needle penetration force and needle cut index. Four types of single jersey fabric, viz. 100 % cotton, polyester/cotton, polyester/lycra, and cotton/lycra, are taken for investigation. The materials are prepared on circular knitting machine by varying the yarn count and loop length. The influence of various parameters, viz. type of fibre, yarn count and loop length, on needle penetration force and needle cut index have been analyzed. In addition, the influence of seam direction on the needle cut index is also studied. A 3^_level factorial design is employed to analyse the influence of there parameters. The statistical analysis shows that yarn count and loop length has a significant effect on needle penetration force and needle cut index. It has been observed that in all single jersey knitted fabrics, cotton-lycra and polyester-lycra half plated fabrics have higher value of needle penetration force than cotton and polyester/cotton.  The test results also show that for both coarser yarn and finer yarn count, longer loop length gives a lower value of needle penetration force. The needle cut index decreases with increase in the yarn count and loop length. Also it is observed that, the needle cut index is more in wale direction as compared to that in course direction. It is also concluded that cotton fabric samples are more susceptible to needle damages as compared to their counterparts.

4 illus, 3 tables, 12 ref

041386   HALIM A F M F, ALAM I K, AKHTER T (Textile Engineering Dep, World Univ of Bangladesh, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh, Email: fahadrabby314@gmail.com) : Novel chemical degumming process and its effect on structure and properties of mulberry fibres. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(3), 366-71.

A novel chemical degumming (Fibre-N) method has been used to extract fibres from the bark of mulberry plant. Fibres obtained by a new method (Fibre-N) are characterized by the X-ray diffraction, scanning electron microscopy, Fourier transform Infrared spectroscopy, residual gum content, fibre yield, and mechanical property measurement. Fibre-N method exhibits 17.71 % lower residual gum content, 37.18 % higher breaking strength, 18.36 % higher breaking elongation and 10.81 % higher fibre yield. Fibre-N process used to extract fibres from mulberry plant is more economical and efficient, which could be used as a promising method for producing textile yarns, nonwovens, and composites.

5 illus, 1 table, 23 ref

041385   DAS S (Fashion Technology Dep, Bannari Amman Institute of Technology, Sathyamangalam - 638 401, Email: subrata40in@yahoo.co.on) : Bio-polishing of mulberry silk. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(3), 362-5.

A proteolytic enzyme, papain, has been used for bio-polishing of mulberry silk. Improvement in lustre, with no significant change in absorbency, flexural rigidity and crease recovery, due to the cleaning of the fibre surface by the enzyme is reported. A chemometric experimental design is used with two variables and five levels.

2 illus, 3 tables, 5 ref

041384   MISHRA S N, RAVIKUMAR D, REDDY A, NAIK S V (Central Silk Technological Research Institute, Madiwala, Bangalore - 560 068, Email: snmishra.csb@gmail.com) : Influence of cocoon stifling and storage on silk reeling performance and quality of muga raw silk. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(3), 359-61.

The hot air electrical stifling study has been conducted to evaluate the influence of electrical stifling temperature, stifling hours and duration of cocoon preservation on reeling performance and quality of muga silk . Muga cocoons are reeled on motorised muga silk reeling machine. Electrical hot air stifling has shown superior reeling performance in comparison to smoke stifled and sun dried cocoons. The study has shown that raw silk recovery from electrically hot air stifled cocoons is significantly high in comparison to flame-smoke-sun stifling with a gain of about 6.37 %. Similarly there is gradual decline in raw silk recovery (RSR) percentage with increase in storage period of muga cocoon. Thus, RSR has declined by 14.32 % in course of 6 months of cocoon storage. Tenacity is found higher in October crop (average 3.36 g/den), while it is average 2.83 g/den in crop of May month. Muga raw silk yarn has lost elongation with extended storage of yarn. In fresh muga raw silk yarn, elongation is found 37.55 %, while in one year old stored muga raw silk yarn elongation has come down to 33.02 %. Thus, the study recommends stifling muga cocoon by hot air stifling for four hours. Cocoon preservation time needs to be minimized and muga silk yarn of October (Kotia) crop with high tenacity should be used as warp yarn in weaving.

4 tables, 6 ref

041383   MALEKI M S, MAHMOUDNIA S, MOUSAZADEGAN F (Textile Engineering Dep, Amirkabir Univ of Technology, Tehran, Iran, Email: f_mousazadegan@aut.ac.ir) : Influence of weft knitted fabrics tensile characteristics and garment size on the body movement comfort. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(3), 352-8.

The effect of fabric tensile property and garment size on the clothing pressure variation has been studied, considering the pressure alteration during the body movement with various ranges. The results reveal that for a constant body dimension, smaller clothing size applies higher pressure. In addition, fabric’s tensile modulus is a determinant parameter of the clothing pressure. Increment in the body movement range exerts more pressure on the body due to the greater strain of garments. Clothing pressure assessment confirms the pressure relaxation during the wearing time.

5 illus, 3 tables, 14 ref

041382   JAGATHEESAN K, DAS A (Textile Technology Dep, PSG Coll of Technology, Coimbatore - 641 004, Email: jk.textile@psgtech.ac.in) : Development of metallic core-spun yarns and hybrid conductive fabrics for electromagnetic shielding applications. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(3), 346-51.

Various metallic core-sheath yarns have been prepared and conductive fabrics are woven using sample loom for electromagnetic shielding applications. The core-sheath yarn is prepared using stainless steel and polyester slivers with different proportions of SS fibre content. The conductive fabrics are produced with different warp and weft patterns. The shielding effectiveness (SE) of fabric has been tested in the frequency range from 50 MHz to 1.5 GHz according to ASTM D4935. The test results reveal that the fabric with cell type structures shows better shielding effectiveness (SE) than the plain weave structures. The increase in metal content does not influence the SE of fabric having conductive fibres in one direction. However, fabric having conductive fibres in warp and weft directions shows improved shielding effectiveness. When the grid size is increased, the shielding effectiveness is decreased. It is concluded that the fabric with small grid size and cell type weave structures could provide effective shielding as compared to plain woven fabric in low frequency range.

6 illus, 2 tables, 11 ref

041381   LI J, YU Y, ZHU Y (Ningbo Univ, Ningbo 315211, PR China, Email: lj7980062@163.com) : Light-chromatic identification of rare-earth luminescent fibres doped with organic onium salt. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(3), 338-45.

Organic onium salt has been used as a photosensitive pigment for rare-earth luminescent fibre. A certain dose of organic onium salt has been added to rare-earth strontium aluminate luminescent fibre (RESALF) during its melt spinning. It’s photochromatic property is studied by comparing RESALFs with and without the organic onium salt. RESALF photochromatic identification method is devised according to the Standard Colorimetric System CIE (International Commission on illumination) 1931 XYZ. The results show that, when excited by 365nm wavelength light, RESALF doped with organic onium salt exhibits good photochromatic properties. The luminescence color of RESALF doped with organic onium salt switches from the yellow-green region to the blue region. The light-chromatic recognition method used is thus able to provide an accurate identification of the luminescence color of the new RESALF.

5 illus, 3 tables, 17 ref

041380   VIJU S, THILAGAVATHI G, AARTHY S (Textile Technology Dep, PSG Coll of Technology, Coimbatore - 641 004, Email: vijutext@gmail.com) : Effect of hydrochloric acid treated neetle fibre on oil absorbency. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(3), 332-7.

Hydrochloric acid (HCl) treatment on nettle fibres has been performed to improve the oil absorbency. Box-Behnken experimental design is used to study the influence of parameters, such as treatment time, treatment temperature and concentration on oil absorbency. It is observed that the maximum oil absorbency of 15.39 g/g of nettle fibres is achieved at 2 % of HCl concentration, 75°C of treatment temperature and 60 min of treatment time. Scanning electron microscopic study reveals that the raw nettle fibre surface exhibits waxy and protruding parts, and on HCl treatment the surface becomes rougher. The influence of other parameters such as stirring speed, environmental temperature and reusability on oil absorbency is also studied. Oil sorbed nettle fibres are also subjected to soil burial tests and burning tests. In conclusion, the raw nettle fibres only show an oil absorbency of 9.25 (g/g), whereas HCl treated nettle fibres show a maximum oil absorbency of 15.39 g/g.

5 illus, 3 tables, 19 ref

041379   MUKHOPADHYAY A, MAHAWAR G (Textile Technology Dep, National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar - 144 011, Email: arunangshu@nitj.ac.in) : Effect of leaks on performance of a fabric filter in pulse jet cleaning assisted filtration system. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(3), 326-31.

Study embodies assessment of outlet emission in the baghouse exhaust while hole appears on filter due to pyrophoric particles during hot gas filtration or damages due to cages. As it is difficult to study full-scale baghouse, flat PTFE coated polyester filter fabric has been tested in the present study. Experimental research has been carried out to observe and understand the emission behavior of leaks throughout the filtration time. After stabilization of media, the effect of three independent parameters has been used for the study of hole diameter, position of hole and face velocity. The behavior of emitted particles has been studied based on the data generated during online particle measurement system. The experiment leads to the inferences that with increase in hole size, the rate of outlet emission increases but in different manner. Smaller diameter hole does not make prominent effect to position with the face velocity. At all level of hole size, progressive increase in emission and peak pressure have been observed with the face velocity.

6 illus, 2 tables, 11 ref

041377   RAHIMI S, AHMADI M S (Textile Engineering Dep, Yazd Univ, Yazd, Iran, Email: ms.ahmadi@yazd.ac.ir) : Mechanical properties of synthetic leather reinforced with woven, knitted and nonwoven fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(3), 312-8.

In this research, synthetic leather samples have been produced using polyvinyl chloride film and three types of reinforcing polyester fibre fabrics, namely woven, knitted, and nonwoven, with similar areal weights. The samples are then subjected to tensile, trapezoid tear and bursting tests. The effect of structural parameters of the reinforcing fabrics on the mentioned properties has been analyzed and discussed. Based on the results, woven fabric reinforced leathers show the highest tensile and bursting strength, followed by knitted and nonwoven fabrics reinforced ones respectively. The highest tear strength value is observed in the nonwoven reinforced samples.

5 illus, 2 tables, 16 ref

041376   CHOUBISA B, SINHA S K, CHATTOPADHAYAY R (Textile Technology Dep, Dr B R Ambedkar National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar - 144 011, Email: sinhask@nitj.ac.in) : Compression behaviour of hand-tufted carpets: Part II—Effect of cyclic compressive load. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(3), 305-11.

The effect of cyclic compressive load on compression characteristics of wool and acrylic hand-tufted carpets has been studied. Wool carpets exhibit higher compression and recovery than the acrylic carpets with similar construction. Compression and matting decrease with an increase in pile density. Percentage recovery of the carpets is found to increase with increase in the number of compression cycle.

5 illus, 2 tables, 21 ref

041375   VISHNUPRIYA V, PHEBE K, KARTHIKEYAN K, KRISHNARAJ K, MOHAN R, VASAGAM N (CSIR-Central Leather Research Institute, Chennai - 600 020, Email: kphebejohn@yahoo.co.in) : Compatibility of mulberry silk fabric with cow nappa leather for product development. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(3), 298-304.

The present work describes the application of silk fabric for leather garments and goods to support the leather products industry in identifying alternate raw material. The results show that the quilted silk fabric has the potential to be combined with cow nappa leather to make products with improved strength and enhanced aesthetic appeal. The major findings of this study also prove that on treatment with artificial alkaline perspiration, leather and silk-based samples behave inversely and this relation gives a clear direction to product designers and developers about the placement of leather and silk panels while making combination products. Apparently, this study helps the silk industry to attain the major share in the domestic and global market.

3 illus, 2 tables, 29 ref

041373   AALIPOURMOHAMMADI M, DAVODIROKNABADIA A, NAZARI A (Textile Engineering Dep, Islamic Azad Univ, Yazd, Iran, Email: Davodi@gmail.com) : Producing multifunctional wool fabrics using nano zinc oxide in presence of natural dye henna. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(3), 286-92.

Colored wool fabric with special functions, including self-cleaning, anti-bacterial, and ultraviolet (UV) blocking, has been prepared by applying nano ZnO as a photocatalyst and henna as both a natural dye for coloration and an agent capable of modifying the ZnO nanoparticles. Natural dye henna has been used as photo sensitizer to fabricate zinc oxide nanoparticles. Coloration of wool fabrics and surface modification of fabric are performed by adding modified zinc oxide nanoparticles in exhaustion bath. The self-cleaning property of treated wool fabrics is evaluated through discoloring methylene blue dye under sunlight irradiation. The antibacterial activities of the samples against two common pathogenic bacteria, namely Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus have also been assessed. The results indicate that adding natural dye henna to zinc oxide leads to better self-cleaning properties, even the photocatalytic activity of ZnO has no negative effect on fabric color. Moreover, this process imparts proper antibacterial properties and UV-blocking activity to wool fabrics.

6 illus, 1 table, 37 ref

041372   TSHIFULARO C, ANANDJIWALA R, PATNAIK A (CSIR Materials Science and Manufacturing, Port Elizabeth, South Africa, Email: rajesh.anandjiwala@mandela.ac.za) : Effect of process parameters on properties of polypropylene and kenaf fibres needle-punched nonwoven geotextiles. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(3), 274-85.

Effects of stroke frequency, depth of needle penetration and mass per unit area on properties of needle-punched nonwoven fabrics produced from polypropylene (PP), 50/50 PP/kenaf and kenaf fibres have been studied. Properties of fabrics, such as tensile strength, puncture resistance, pore size, water permeability and transmissivity are analysed. Results obtained show that the higher tensile strength and puncture resistance are achieved in fabrics produced from kenaf fibres at higher stroke frequency, depth of needle penetration and mass per unit area. Fabrics produced from kenaf fibres can be employed in geotextile applications, since they also possess bigger pore size and higher water permeability.

6 illus, 1 table, 36 ref

041371   KARTHIK A, SAMPATH P S (Mechanical Engineering Dep, S.S.M.Coll of Engineering, Komarapalayam - 638 183, Email: akarthikme86@gmail.com) : Analysis of thrust force in drilling cotton with bamboo blended fibre-reinforced composites using Box-Behnken methodology. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(3), 267-73.

In this study, cotton/bamboo woven fabric reinforced composite has been subjected to drilling operation and thrust force is analysed for different combination of feed rate, cutting speed and drill geomentry. Box-Behnken experimental design is used to optimize the cutting parameters along with the input parameters, such as drill- bit geomentry, spindle speed and rate of feed. Further, a drill with standard twist is used for drilling operation. The results show that with the increase in thrust force, feed rate increases and cutting speed experiences decrease when drill diameter is increased. The SEM analysis is also done to reveal about various damages, like fibre pullout, peel off, uncut fibres and voids.

6 illus, 2 tables, 21 ref

041370   MONTAZER M, NAVAEI T, RAD M M (Textile Engineering Dep, Amirkabir Univ of Technology, Tehran, Iran, Email: tex5mm@aut.ac.ir) : Preparation of a naturally driven cotton wound dressing via honey, Tragacanth and Sumac. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(3), 260-6.

An antibacterial wound dressing with wound healing effects of honey (H), Tragacanth Gum (TG) and Sumac (S) (Rhus coriaria L.) has been prepared. The antibacterial properties of five different concentrations of water extracted Sumac has been examined to find out the best sample. Ratios of honey and Tragacanth Gum are investigated along with the chosen concentration of Sumac in order to find out the optimum compound with desirable antibacterial and healing effects. The results of the well diffusion test indicate antibacterial activities against S. aureus and E. coli on all samples. Scratch test results demonstrate improvement in the proliferation of fibroblasts on the fabric treated with compounds. The prepared wound dressing accelerates the healing process and eliminates bacterial growth causing wound infection.

3 illus, 2 tables, 54 ref

041369   CHAUHAN V K, SINGH J P, DEBNATH S (ICAR-National Institute of Natural Fibre Engineering and Technology, Kolkata - 700 040, Email: sanjoydebnath@yahoo.com) : Bursting behavior of polyester needle-punched filter fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(3), 253-9.

The effect of fabric weight, depth of needle penetration and needling density on bursting strength of needle-punched nonwoven filter fabrics prepared from virgin and recycled polyester fibres has been studied. The effect of fabric parameters on bursting behavior trend is found similar in both the virgin and the recycled polyester filter fabric samples. There is considerable fall in bursting strength of recycled polyester fabrics as compared to that in virgin one, under high fabric weight and needling density. Interestingly, it has been found that the recycled polyester filter fabric shows 3.584 % lesser strength (average value of all samples) than the virgin polyester filter fabric, which signifies the use of recycled polyester filter wherever applicable, considering the recyclability and sustainability aspects.

3 illus, 4 tables, 13 ref

041368   SINGH V K, MUKHOPADHYAY S (Textile Technology Dep, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, New Delhi - 110 016, Email: samrat@textile.iitd.ernet.in) : Hybrid biocomposites. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(2), 224-46.

Biocomposites are being explored by research communityfor the past few decades due to rising environmental concerns. Moisture uptake, poor interface and moderate to lower mechanical properties have proved to be a bottleneck for biocomposites to partially or fully replace synthetic composites. The concept of hybridising, i.e. incorporating two or more reinforcements instead of single reinforcement in a matrix, has the potential to overcome this bottleneck by exploiting the desired contribution of both the reinforcing phases. Although hybrid composites have already extensively explored for high-performance fibres, the studies on hybrid composites using biodegradable constituents still lag behind. This review addresses studies conducted on hybrid composites using at least one biodegradable component and the findings in terms of properties and factors affecting them are discussed. The analysis on synergistic effect reported by researchers along with the scope of ongoing research and prospects for hybrid biocomposites have also been discussed in detail.

8 illus, 6 tables, 149 ref

041367   HEYDARIAN P, VADOOD M, YAZDI A A A (Textile Engineering Dep, Yazd Univ, Yazd, Iran, Email: mortezavadood@yazd.ac.ir) : Modeling of bending length based on concentrated loading method. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(2), 220-3.

Presented study is aimed at designing a model for bending length based on the concentrated loading method using 10 parameters extracted from the modified tensile test. After that, a new database has been reproduced by using principal component analysis and the modeling is conducted by regression and artificial neural network (ANN) based on the trial and error method. The obtained R-squared of 0.97 between ANN outputs and corresponding real bending lengths proves that the proposed method has a great potential for evaluating the mechanical properties of fabrics.

5 illus, 2 tables, 32 ref

041365   DAS S (Fashion Technology Dep, Bannari Amman Institute of Technology, Sathyamangalam, Erode - 638 401, Email: subrata40in@yahoo.co.in) : Effect of drying on tensile properties and structure of tasar and muga silk. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(2), 211-4.

Tasar and muga silk yarns have been dried at 80 ºC, 100 ºC and 140 ºC and the effect of temperature on tensile and structural properties is investigated. No significant effect of drying on tenacity of tasar and muga silk yarn is observed. However, elongation decreases with drying due to increase in moisture loss with temperature. Crystallinity has no effect even when dried up to 140˚C. Scanning electron micrograph study reveals that there is no significant change in surface structure with different temperature of drying.

1 illus, 4 tables, 14 ref

041362   PARMAR M S, SISODIA N, SINGH M (Northern India Textile Research Association, Rajnagar, Ghaziabad - 201 002, Email: msprmr@yahoo.com) : Development of fabric smoothness tester. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(2), 190-6.

An instrument has been designed and developed to measure the smoothness behavior of finished cotton fabrics. The instrument is based on pendulum principle. The weight (hang on string) comprises a frictionless wheel movable along arc shaped platform. The platform acts as a sample holder. When the weight is subjected to push, it swings back and forth in the platform. The amplitude of the swing reduces due to friction of the fabric. The amplitude is inversely proportional to the friction or roughness of the fabric. Various types of finished cotton fabrics are tested on the developed instrument. The results are compared with Kawabata system to verify the working of instrument. These results are also compared with the bending length and crease recovery behavior of the particular fabric sample. It is found that the lesser the bending length the more will be the smoothness. If the crease recovery angle is high, the fabric will be smoother. One way analysis of variance has been applied to find out effect of different processes on fabric surface smoothness property.

3 illus, 4 tables, 17 ref

041358   SINGH J P, RAM S K (Textile Technology Dep, U.P. Textile Technology Institute, Kanpur - 208 001, Email: jpsingh.iitd@gmail.com) : Factor affecting absorbency behaviour of woven velour printed terry fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(2), 164-8.

The present research work is aimed at designing the woven velour printed terry fabrics with improved overall performance. The influence of pile height, pick density and pile count (one ply and two ply both) on the water absorbency of fabric has been studied. Thirty samples have been prepared by changing variables as per Box – Behnken design of experiments. These variables are optimised for achieving high quality woven velour printed terry fabrics. The findings show that the absorbency of these fabrics increases with the increase in pile height and pick density. The results are found true for both the fabrics having one ply and two ply pile yarns. The absorbency of the fabrics having two ply pile yarn is always higher as compared to fabric having one ply pile yarn. The absorbency behaviour of these fabrics is different from the looped woven terry fabric which clearly indicates the importance of loop geometry.

8 illus, 3 tables, 13 ref

041356   SADOUGHI M, BOUSHEHRI A N, EZAZSHAHABI N (Amirkabir Univ of Technology, Tehran, Iran, Email: ezazshahabi@aut.ac.ir) : Contribution of bending and shear behavior of woven fabrics in the characterization of drape. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(2), 145-52.

The drape, bending and shear properties of a group of woven fabrics have been studied along with the effects of fabric structural parameters on these properties. In addition, the influential effect and relative contribution of bending and shear behavior in the determination of drape is also evaluated. The results show that the crossing over firmness factor, which is related to the weave structure and also the weft density, significantly influences the drape, bending and shear behavior of fabrics. With the aid of linear regression analysis of the relationship among drape coefficients, bending and shear modulus, the correlational model for prediction of drape based on bending and shear has also been developed. With regards to this model, it can be claimed that the relative contribution of fabric bending in determination of drape is greater than that of shear.

5 illus, 2 tables, 26 ref

041355   CHOUBISA B, SINHA S K, CHATTOPADHAYAY R (Textile Technology Dep, Dr B R Ambedkar National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar - 144 011, Email: sinhask@nitj.ac.in) : Compression behaviour of hand-tufted carpets: Part I–Effect of short-term static and dynamic loading. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(2), 139-44.

The effect of static and dynamic loading on the compression characteristics of hand tufted carpets has been studied using two types of pile materials. Wool tufted carpets are found to show better retention of thickness. Higher tuft density is found to assist retention of thickness, while higher pile height results in more thickness loss. Thickness loss is also found to be more at the initial impacts, while the recovery rate is found to be more at the initial stage.

4 illus, 3 tables, 31 ref

041354   MEENA H C, SHAKYAWAR D B, VARSHNEY R K, KUMAR A (ICAR-Central Sheep & Wool Research Institute, Avikangar - 304 501, Email: dbshakya_67@yahoo.co.in) : Performance of Indian crossbred wool on khadi spinning system. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(1), 127-32.

HP Crossbred, JK Crossbred and JK Merino yarns have been spun on the New Model Charkha (NMC) spinning system to find out the suitability of Indian crossbred wool in Khadi sector. These crossbred wools produced in the north temperature region of India have been spun into medium quality yarn linear density of 42 tex. The pure crossbred wool yarns have higher U %, imperfections and hairiness index; and lower tenacity, elongation-at-break and coefficient of friction. The mixing of Australian merino wool with JK crossbred wool significantly improves yarn performance in terms of fineness (31 tex), evenness (U %), imperfections and hairiness index. The tenacity, elongation-at-break and coefficient of friction of mixed yarns increase significantly by mixing of Australian merino wool with JK crossbred wool. These findings will help in increasing the utilization of crossbred wool and reducing the costing of end products.

1 illus, 3 tables, 16 ref

041353   CUIFANG Z, YU C, JIACHENG M (Zhejiang Normal Univ, Jinhua 32100?China, Email: xx98@zjnu.cn) : Fabric defect detection algorithm based on PHOG and SVM. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(1), 123-6.

In order to effectively improve the detection probability for different types of fabrics and defects, a fabric defect detection method based on pyramid histogram of edge orientation gradients (PHOG) and support vector machine (SVM) has been proposed. The algorithm combines fabric texture statistical method and machine learning method. It has two main parts, namely the feature extraction and classification. The detection process mainly includes image segmentation, PHOG feature extraction, SVM model training and detection classification. The simulation results show that, based on the detection rate and the false alarm rate, the algorithm has a good detection and classification effect, has a certain robustness, and can be applied to the actual production department.

3 illus, 3 tables, 7 ref

041352   RATHINAMOORTHY R (Fashion Technology Dep, PSG Coll of Technology, Coimbatore - 641 004, Email: r.rathinamoorthy@gmail.com) : Effect of repeated dry-cleaning process on physical properties of cotton, silk and wool fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(1), 116-22.

The present study is aimed at analyzing the effect of dry-cleaning solvent on the physical properties of cotton, silk and wool fabrics. The sourced fabrics are dry-cleaned with two different commercial solvents, namely mineral turpentine oil, and dipropylene glycol dimethyl ether. The fabrics are dry-cleaned separately for 5, 10 and 15 times with each solvent and analysed for their performance. The results indicate that the dry-cleaned fabrics become thicker and bulkier, and hence their air permeability, bending ability, crease recovery, tearing strength and abrasion resistance reduce. The water absorbency, stiffness and thickness of the fabrics are found to be increased significantly. The statistical analysis results confirm that the changes in the fabric are significant with 95 % confidence limit (p 0.05). Out of the selected dry-cleaning solvents, hydrocarbons are found to be more aggressive than the glycol ethers in terms of fabric deterioration, except tearing strength. The GC-MS analysis results confirm the presence of dry-cleaning solvents deposits on the fabric even after 24 h of airing out process.

4 tables, 32 ref

041351   MUDNOOR C V, CHAKRABORTY J N (Dr. B R Ambedkar National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar - 144 011, Email: chakrabortyjn@gmail.com) : Dyeing of cotton with vat dyes using alkaline catalase alongwith iron(II) salt. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(1), 109-15.

In this study, attempts have been made to replace sodium hydrosulphite with alkaline catalase in combination with iron (II) salt for dyeing cotton with vat dyes. The results show that alkaline catalase with iron (II) salt is quiet effective and capable of substituting sodium hydrosulphite with comparable dye strength and colour fastness. While reduction potential values of dyebaths are found to be almost same in both hydrosulphite and alkaline catalase along with iron(II) salt systems, the stability of the baths in absence and presence of dye is found superior in the new reduction system as compared to those in hydrosulphite system. Dye strength results show mixed findings, i.e. for some dyes, dye strength is higher in new reduction system, while for rest of the dyes, it is higher in hydrosulphite system.

5 illus, 4 tables, 25 ref

041350   SAMPATH M B, PRAKASH C, KUMAR M S (Fashion Technology Dep, Sona Coll of Technology, Salem - 636 005, Email: cprakashphd@gmail.com) : Influence of moisture management finish on comfort characteristics of knitted fabrics made from different yarns. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(1), 102-8.

The influence of moisture management finish on comfort characteristics of knitted fabrics made from five different yarns has been studied in order to find out their level of performance. In order to study this effect, five types of yarns, namely microdenier polyester, spun polyester, polyester / cotton, filament polyester and 100 % cotton, have been converted to knitted fabrics. It is observed that microdenier polyester fabrics having high wicking action and quicker moisture evaporation show superior performance with respect to comfort characteristics.

3 illus, 2 tables, 12 ref

041349   MAHAPATRA A, PATIL S, ARPUTHARAJ A, GOTMARE V D, PATIL P G (ICAR- Central Institute for Research on Cotton Technology, Matunga, Mumbai - 400 019, Email: archanamahapatra89@gmail.com) : Effect of textile softeners on BTCA treated cotton fabric. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(1), 96-101.

The effect of two softeners (Sapamine^® OC and Ultratex^® ASG) on physical properties of BTCA finished cotton fabric has been studied. Bleached cotton fabrics are treated with 1, 2, 3, 4-butane tetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) followed by finishing with a cationic and a silicone softener by conventional pad-dry-cure method. Properties, such as crease recovery angle, absorbency, whiteness index, tensile strength, moisture regain, surface morphology and crystallinity of the finished fabrics, have been evaluated. The crease recovery angle of the finished fabrics increases from 154° to 257° after treatment with BTCA and further increases to 266° after BTCA+silicone softener based finishing. The absorbency of cationic softener finished fabric is found to be higher than that of silicone softener finished fabrics. Tensile strength reduces after BTCA finishing by more than 50 %, and about 17 % softeners is recovered. Scanning electron microscope images show smooth ridges and surface characteristics of cotton fibres in BTCA treated samples as well as deposition of softener on the fibre surface in cationic and silicone softener finished fabrics.

5 illus, 2 tables, 31 ref

041348   SIM H, PARKA Y (Clothing and Fashion Dep, Yeungnam Univ, Gyeongsan 38541, Korea, Email: ymp9397@yu.ac.kr) : Flavonol-quercetin functionalized silk dyeing under different liquid fermentation conditions. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(1), 90-5.

Onion peels have been fermented prior to dyeing of silk to enhance the dyeing efficiency. The conditions have been changed by mixing the nutrients and microorganisms, and the differences in color and fastness are evaluated. Sucrose and dry yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae), important factors affecting the fermentation, have been used as nutrients and microorganisms for fermentation. The study has also been done without any additive and by adding only sucrose or yeast for comparison. The fermentation conditions are maintained at 35 °C for 8 h. The L^*, a^*, b^*, and K/S values of silk has been measured using a colorimeter. The value of L^* is found highest when microorganisms are added, while a^*, b^* and K/S values are found lower after fermentation under all conditions. The value of a^* is found the lowest when both yeast and sucrose are added simultaneously; b^* is the lowest when microorganisms are added. Fastness to light, washing, and perspiration are found higher after fermentation. The dyeing of silk using fermented solutions made of onion peels shows a distinctive color change and good color fastness. This may be helpful in developing natural dyeing products of various colors.

6 illus, 3 tables, 19 ref

041343   MANJU V V, DIVAKARA S, KARTHIK D, SOMASHEKAR R (Mysore Univ, Mysuru - 570 006, Email: rs@physics.uni-mysore.ac.in) : Crystallite shape, dielectric constant and functional data analysis of various cotton fibres using WAXS data. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(1), 49-56.

Four different varieties of cotton fibres have been used for X-ray diffraction study using in-house programs. X-ray data have been corrected for instrumental broadening and Lorentz polarization factors before using them for further analysis. Using Peakfit® program, 13-15 Bragg reflections are identified and cell parameters are determined by CHECKCELL^®. Full width at half maxima (FWHM) of these reflections are used to estimate the crystallite size and strain along [hkl] directions. Using these results and employing a novel method, a 3-dimensional image of the crystallite shapes in these cotton fibres are computed. Employing Lorenz-Mie theory of scattering of electromagnetic radiation by molecules embedded in dielectric spheres, the dielectric constant of cellulose along amorphous region has been computed. This technique can be extended to any material of interest. Correlation among varieties of fibres and each physical parameter like crystallite size, strain, tenacity and staple length have been investigated using functional analysis, which shows the correlation between physical parameters with varieties of cotton fibres.

7 illus, 5 tables, 21 ref

041342   ALSHUKURA M, MACINTYRE L (Heriot-Watt Univ, Scotland, United Kingdom, Email: malekshukur@yahoo.com) : Bending rigidity of yarns using beam method on a two-support configuration. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(1), 40-8.

This paper reports a simple, quick and reasonably accurate approach for measuring the bending rigidity of yarns. The beam method has been adapted and applied using a bending frame that has a fixed support and a simple support. The yarns are left to bend under the effect of their own weight. The accuracy and the precision of that bending frame are assessed over the time using an isotropic material and then compared against the ring-loop method and the KES-FB-2 pure bending tester. The findings show that the precision of this bending frame is acceptable. However, this bending frame gives at least 1.6 times greater values of bending rigidity than the KES-FB-2 pure bending tester, though the relationship between these two methods is linear and significant. Moreover, the spun yarns appear to have high levels of variability of the bending rigidity. This study is important as it overcomes the challenges faced while using other methods to measure the bending rigidity of yarn. It also provides a comprehensive account of the variation in this property. Further, it gives an indication of the highly non-uniform structure of spun yarns and the impact of yarn defects on the bending properties of yarns.

4 illus, 3 tables, 15 ref

041341   RAJAN T P, DAS S (Fashion Technology Dep, Bannari Amman Institute of Technology, Sathyamangalam - 638 401, Email: subratactl@gmail.com) : Evaluation of air permeability behaviour of warp knitted spacer fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2020, 45(1), 32-9.

The porosity and air permeability of 3D polyester warp knitted spacer fabric has been determined by optimizing the structural parameters and using Box and Behnken experimental design. Spacer fabrics are developed by using polyester multifilament of 80 - 120 denier on the face layer and 30 - 70 denier on the bottom layer. Polyester monofilaments of 20 - 40 denier are used in the middle layer, deciding the third dimension of the fabric. Porosity and air permeability are estimated with respect to the linear density of polyester filaments, and response the surface design is used to predict the optimum linear density. Better air permeability and porosity are observed at the face layer denier of 100 and middle layer denier of 20. The statistical analysis proves that the degree of correlation of F values is 12.44 between the filament linear density and air permeability.

5 illus, 5 tables, 26 ref